Freedom Kayaks Ltd produces bespoke, British hand crafted composite kayaks and paddles

You are here

This kayak is suitable for bigger paddlers, or small/average sized paddlers looking for more initial stability and maneuverability. NoName is very fun and comfortable to paddle. It is a multi chine "stitch and glue" hull, which gives a nicely contoured shape with a smooth, sharp entry, nearly eliptical mid-section with plenty of room and slick stern. It has very good Initial stablility and a comforable secondary stablilty. It is fast and responsive and gives a very smooth ride.


well done

Well done

thanks for the free plans) really great!

For NoName 7 kg epoxy resin (+ hardener inside that quantity) should be enough. As I remember - for me was enough something about 6 kg. 10m2 110 g/m2 fiberglass cloth for the outside and 10m2 160 g/m2 for the inside. It will remain plenty of trimmings, but it's good layer to be in one piece (one for the bottom and one for the top). You can use less if you use cuts for the top panels(with overlaps) but i'm not sure whether it is worth. On stitches (just inside) i put 210 g/m2 chopped from a roll, but much easy and clear will be to use fiberglas tape there. Like this one Thanks for your interest, Davide!

thank you very much. slightly less resin than what i thought. we are going to build a model in scale, pictures soon)

hi, how you made it 'multi-color'? my first idea, was you paint the plywood sections before assemble it with .. i dont know the english word. transparent paint that make the color darker. now, not so sure anymore... thanks!

The painting process was after assembling, just before first coat of epoxy resin and fiberglass. Using tape for clear edge. The paint is acrylic on water base. Еpoxy dissolves paint and goes through after about 10-15 minutes (at least this brands which i've use), so you have to work fast to these places in lamination process or else paint will be in epoxy after that time and every try to spread resin will lead to a big mess. Try first on some plywood sheat to check if your resin dissolves your paint and what is the time for that. The other way is to use water stain on panels before assembling, but only if you are sure that cuts are so precise, that there is no need for any sanding or extra work on the external side. Which is not usually the case.

Or you can use veneer (0.5 - 0.6 mm) instead paint before coating and make whatever design you want.

so, what the next plan?

probably 430x66 cm. With big rocker and almost vertical bow and stern. Do you have any suggestions?

A lot of thanks to share knowledge for free. I'll try to build the noname after summer

Hi there. I'm hoping to find time and start building NoName. One question, should plywood be waterproof or any will do? Milos

Hi Milos, plywood used for kayak on pictures and videos is a regular one. This same non waterproof plywood is used in DoubleTrouble too. And for more then a 3 years of use there is not a single problem with that. Epoxy resin sealed all. Just have to use epoxy, not polyester or vinilester resin. And to be sure that there is no places without epoxy cover.

Thank you for info. I have plywood factory near by, tomorrow I'm there to order :). I wouldn't use anything else than epoxy, being from aviation I have great respect for it. I'll do single first to measure my self and if all is good a double to have a ride with my daughter.

Super. Ako imas neke probleme u razlicite etape gradnje - koristi kontakt formu pa ako mogu cu da pomognem. Pozdrav!

Gde ste bre srbende, svaka cast za sajt lozim se da napravim ovo cudo pa cu javiti kako ide. Pozdrav!

Hello! Thank you for your plans, I am very excited to begin construction. I have a question, in my country - Brazil -. plywood sheet measuring 160 cm x 220 cm, so I want to use the puzzle plans of NoName, I want know if they are accurate and have been tested or is it better to build a model before. thank you Paulo

Hi Paulo, I haven't tested puzzle plans - i've build NoName before plans was made. But as far as i know several people started that built and till now nobody complains. Always is good to build a model in some scale before. At least for me. And especially if this is the first built. In that way you'll not only check drawings, but also you have an oportunity to see how it will go when you start actual built, what problems could occur etc. Wish you success!

Hi there. Thank you for your plans. Can I print out the NoName Kayak Plans on A0 size papers and then use it as a measurement to cut the parts on plywoods? And what is the thickness of plywood that I should use? Thank you, Adrian

Hi Adrian, yes, you can print on a0 and then transfer to plywood, but first you have to make some changes on plans. A0 paper is not so wide as sheets in plans, but you can easily rearange parts in desired format. The other option is to print as is, but with overlap and cross-marks.Then you can put together everything in one sheet. 4 mm thickness will be good, Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for the advice. This will be my first home made s&g plywood kayak. I'll send you the picture if I manage to build one. Thanks again.

First off, I love this design. Thank you so much for sharing!! As an experienced boat builder and glasser, I find the stitch and glue method fascinating. I'm very excited to try it out! I have few questions about materials that I couldn't find on the web and my supplier was hesitant to answer.. What is the importance of using epoxy resin over a polyester? I've worked for a few years at a boat company that builds world-class sport boats- don't worry, I'm only going to use these plans for PERSONAL purposes ONLY. I understand that it is completely a different a territory- fiberglass, carbon fiber and plasticore vs. marine grade plywood. Does the polyester resin interact poorly with the glue in plywood? I couldn't imagine water/sunlight would bother it, as it would be sealed on the exterior with a marine grade, alkyd based oil enamel and the interior sealed with gelcoat treated with surface seal or a wax additive. I live in a very dry climate (we ship most of our boats) and the kayak would only be in the water for a few hours a week, so I plan on using a top side paint for the exterior and a clear coat over the top of that. I'm just curious because I would be able to buy an advanced polyester resin at work for dollars/gallon versus ordering the expensive (but equally amazing) epoxy resin for fifty times that amount. Thank you for your time, - Eli

Thanks Eli, All books and tutorials that i read before starting to build s&g kayaks are strictly about use of the epoxy resin. And from my personal experience, i'm totaly agree with that. Here, where i live, polyester and vinylester resin is from 6 to 10 times cheaper then epoxy. That's why i've made some experiments. First of all, polyester resin didn't bond very well to the plywood. Which is not the case with the epoxy. Further more, when polyester cures, it shrinks much more then epoxy and tends to bend laminated plywood. When this is imposible (because the kayak panels are already glued together and kayak shape is formed) this leads to delaminating. Even if this is not happened right away, very soon delaminating will become reality and all hard work and expensive materials will be for nothing. Also, epoxy compared to other resins is very near to zero (0.andseveralzeroesherebeforesomenumber - this depends on the brand, of course) when it's about watertightness. While polyester resin (even with a gelcoat, which is hard to achieve without mould) is not so waterproof. And water that goes in couldn't go out. This leads to rot onto plywood and delaminating too. I'm aware that now on the market is a big variety of resins with different quality and designation, but i'll continue to use epoxy in s&g. Hope this helps.   Jordan  

Kayaking is a sport that adrenaline while doing so, but not to be on the race course, while on vacation to a place that no river has strong currents, is also fun to wear kayak to scour the river

Greetings from Greece and congratulations on a wonderful design and a beautiful boat!!! I seriously intend to build your design and since i am an absolute novice i would like to ask you a few questions. Well : 1. Have i got it right that printing full scale the pdf file that you are kindly sharing will give me all the information required in order to cut the real size planks and bulkheads ? 2. How do you apply thickened epoxy and fiberglass tape in the inner seam between the deck and the hull after you have stitched them together ? 3. Do you consider your design a sea kayak ? I thank you in advance for your answers ! I am sure i will come again soon with a few more, so sorry....

Thanks Markos! 1. Yes, but you can use also offsets table if there is some problem with printing. The best result will be if you use cnc to cut parts (dxf files) 2. I apply thickened epoxy on seams between deck and hull inside from cockpit and hatches openings as far as i can. watch this video Anyway, it will be good to visit Nick Shade and OrcaBoats channels on youtube. Check "Links" section here. 3. I haven't tested my kayaks in sea yet (live far from sea, unfortunately), but i'm pretty sure they will behave good, especialy Anuket. Of course, it depends on conditions and paddler experience too. You can use contact form if you have more questions, don't worry

For a beginner, your plans are downright amazing and I am going to donate as soon as the project is complete.

Thanks, Donald!

My t-drywall measuring stick in in inches only. Is there any easy way to get this to convert over into inches that are more precise then say 6.231 inches? My measuring stick just will be horribly approximating all the way through.

I have plans only in mm, sorry. But instead offset tables you can use CNC to cut pieces. It will be much more precise, better look and less hassle in building process later

I live in the beach. I wanted to buy a kayak ready. But desafil to build fascinated me. Thank you for providing this very interesting project.

I live in the beach. I wanted to buy a kayak ready. But desafil to build fascinated me. Thank you for providing this very interesting project.

Thanks Marcos!

This site is amazing!! I have been working with wood for years and decided to build the shorty as my first kayak. It was so fun, I built a second and am now working on my first Noname! Will post pictures soon!!

Thanks Jeff! Send me some pictures from building process or finished kayaks and i'll put them in gallery

Hi I want to build the NoName or the Shorty The problem with the NoName is that it’s a little bit to big for my building space I was wondering if it’s possible to downscale the plans for the NoName whit +/- 10% So the overall length will be 4.7 m instead of 5,2 m Has somebody done this and what would be the consequence on floating and paddling ? If this is not advisable then I will build the shorty but I like the shape of the NoName more and I think the performance of the NoName for longer trips is better.

Hi Marc, Sorry for late response! Here is a very good explanation to all your questions

what size paper are plans intended to be printed on for full size patterns

You can print plans from Acrobat Reader (pdf file) on any paper format if you use overlaps and cross marks. There is such option in Acrobat Reader. Of course, printing on a4 format will be big pain in the ass, be cause of too many sheets to put together later. Bigger paper size will decrease the amount of sheets and work. The other option is to print on A0 or A1 endless paper on a roll, but you have to cut pieces from jpg file with some graphic editor and place them in a new file with coresponding width. A0 is 841 mm (33.1 inches) and A1 is 594 mm (23.4 inches) You just have to be sure that everything is in 1:1 scale (use square 10x10 on every new file for this) And use non-water based glue later to avoid stretches when transfer on plywood.

When I import the .dxf file the size for S3 is 54.22'' x 23.19''. Is this correct or am I missing some scaling issue? B3 comes in at 196.67''. Please tell me what size to scale this to. Thank you.

You can control this by squares. They should be 10x10 cm. In general - i've exported plans in dxf format in 1 to 1 scale. But when you import them in some other program it may depends on that program if scale is changed. Just check squares dimensions.

Hi! Thanks for sharing this wonderful project! I'd like to build this kayak but I have no experience in building boats. I recently discovered the stitch and glue method, and it seems easy enough to convince me to start this project (before today I thought that there was only the strips method, which scared me for the complexity). I would like to ask you a question: how can I connect different pieces of plywood to get a panel long enough for your project? Excuse me if I'm asking something stupid but I really have no experience with that.

Hi Stefano, On youtube you'll find a lot of information about that You can use scarf joints on plywood. Here is pretty good explanation and of course you can use power tools (planer and sander) instead these - Or butt joints - You can look at all videos there - it will be much easyer for you like a first time builder Or if you use puzzle style plans it won't be neccessary to pre-join plywood panels. you can check also this discussion And of course - check links that i've put in "Links" section

I couldn't replay to your e-mail, there is some error. That's why I replayng here, hope you will see it: Hi Dan, actualy, every project have a version for cnc cut with puzzle joints. That's how NoName and Tattoo are build in Brazil and England already. You can check photos and videos from Freedomkayaks on facebook here NoName is named Fulmar there. Also, some very good reviews there about how they behave in water. You just need to generate g-code from dwg files, this can be done easily when you send files to the shop. Cheers, Jordan  

Add new comment

You must have Javascript enabled to use this form.